April With the Family in St. Albans City

St. Albans City, about 15 miles south of the Canadian border in northwestern Vermont, is as far north as Amtrak’s The Vermonter train travels. It’s also how my daughter and I — along with hikers and more than a few cyclists — arrived. Some were headed to the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail, a scenic, 10-foot wide, 26-mile stretch of crushed stone meandering through rural corn fields and along the river.

St. Albans, natural views. Photo: Franklin County Regional Chamber of Commerce

The 2-square-mile, pedestrian-friendly City of St. Albans (population 7,000) is the vital, throbbing “hole in the donut” within the boundaries of the more rural Town of St. Albans, with its 55 miles of roads, big box stores and St. Albans Bay, a community with two lakeside parks and individually owned camps border Lake Champlain, just three miles west of the city.

In village-like St. Albans City, it takes about five minutes to walk from the train station, to the Hampton Inn — the recently constructed hotel where we stayed and which has an indoor swimming pool and complimentary breakfast buffet — or to Taylor Park. The five-acre village green where the local Rotary Club restored its glorious fountain is the centerpiece of the pedestrian-friendly city. Independently owned shops, cafés, galleries and restaurants line the newly-updated streetscape — with newly constructed brick sidewalks, flower beds, light posts and space for outdoor café seating — all facing the park. The park borders most city events and parades, especially its 53rd annual Vermont Maple Festival, April 26–28.

St. Albans. Photo: Franklin County Regional Chamber of Commerce

The last weekend in April is an especially fun time to visit St. Albans City. About 35,000 kids of all ages attend its events, including the carnival, parade, talent show, entertainment, craft and antiques fairs — and sugarhouse tours — are all dedicated to maple syrup. From pancake breakfast to maple-enhanced cocktails and stout, cotton candy to “creemies,” maple sugar recipes appear and entice at the annual barbecue, in cooking contests, demonstrations and on the menu at the local eateries. Even the authentic Victorian Back Inn Time B&B prepares a special organic gourmet dinner party for the occasion.

St. Albans, in town. Photo: Franklin County Regional Chamber of Commerce

On the opposite side of the park facing the shops, St. Albans Museum houses two floors of permanent exhibits that showcase military memorabilia, farming, medical displays and the all-important Railroad Room. Railroad fans may know what we did not; the railroad is intrinsic to the city’s history because John Smith of St. Albans City, and the Smith Family, controlled railroads in Vermont. History buffs appreciate the museum is housed in the former school house, c. 1861, where during the St. Albans Raid, October 19, 1864, (during the Civil War) students famously watched a couple of dozen Confederate sympathizers round up townspeople in Taylor Park. They took hostages, set fire to buildings, robbed banks and escaped to Canada with about $200,000. (Not so many youngsters realize Civil War attacks took place in northern New England.)

During our visit, Jeni and I shopped and ate at the charming inn and at three local restaurants: The Old Foundry at One Federal,

onefederalrestaurant.com in a former brick foundry, c. 1850, showcases historic photographs and a locally sourced menu, including poutine (hand-cut fries under gravy and cheese curds) and a caramelized onion-maple bacon gastrique atop grilled chicken. At Jeff’s Maine Seafood, we had creative fresh fish and seafood dishes under the painted tin ceilings, across from the park, and Twiggs, a happening gastropub facing the park, features music and serves craft beer, 10 burgers, plus six varieties of Mac’n Out featuring Twiggs beer cheese sauce.

St. Albans, in town. Photo: Franklin County Regional Chamber of Commerce

What’s notable in the small city is the community dwellers’ obvious effort to proactively enhance daily family life by providing an idyllic atmosphere for children. The city — which lost architectural treasures in a mid-19th century fire and an historic railway gem to the political powers that removed it — has an active, unpaid mayor, independent shopkeepers, restaurateurs and hoteliers, office workers, sugar makers, brewers and farmers. Some were born here and stayed; others transplanted. Together, they’ve created a community that promotes good health (walking school buses and new wellness facilities), recreation (bike paths, indoor ice skating at the Collins Perley Sports Complex) and the arts (Welden Theater, St. Albans Community Arts, the St. Albans Museum and the Artist in Residence Gallery).

In the greater town, summertime, May 30–Sept. 26, showcases a weekly Wednesday night farmers market in St. Albans Bay Park, from 5–8 p.m. Along with farm fresh food, there’s live music, local artisans and a festive atmosphere. The park is near a popular, low-key, family-owned restaurant named Bayside Pavilion where we lunched after our ferry ride from Kamp Kill Kare State Park. This former resort and boys camp is a low-key family destination, with campsites, kayaks and natural outdoor adventures, including swimming. Visitors during the July 4^th holiday can participate in Bay Day, July 6, with day-long family activities, from a morning triathlon to music, fair food and fireworks. In winter, ski aficionados head to Jay Peak and Smugglers’ Notch, each about an hour’s drive distance.