Maine Holiday Attractions in Kennebunkport

“It looks like we’re in rural Alabama,” says my Southerner husband, although the GPS says we’re only seven minutes away from downtown Kennebunkport, Maine. It’s just tall grass, no streetlights, pavement under our wheels and silence since the radio started getting more static than tunes. During the summer, this would be packed with cars full of people who’ve packed beach gear for an overnight, but, in between Columbus Day and Christmas, it’s blissful solitude.

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We shortly reach this sleepy coastal village, and soon realize where all the people are …  it seems residents and visitors alike have flocked like seagulls to the coastal enclave’s newest restaurant, the Boathouse, part of the 25-room hotel by the same name. It’s bustling with folks dining from the Lobster Bar menu (which also features a slew of local oysters to slurp), feasting on Maine’s trademark crustaceans and sipping creative tipples and local beers. The dinner din is almost too much to handle, but we find our room on the second floor is blissfully in one of the most quiet hotel spots in recent memory — especially when newer construction tends to cut corners when it comes to noise cancelling. Not the case here, where nautical touches meet masculine flare and clean designs. There’s not a throw pillow in sight, just warm hues of blue, rich woods, white Frette linens and the herbal whiff of Malin + Goetz bath products.

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It’s distinctive from each of the Kennebunkport Resort Collection properties, which all have their own personalities and price points. Totaling nine hotels in all — some only open seasonally — there’s the more down-to-earth Yachtsman bungalows, all the way up to Hidden Pond, with cottages nestled in 60 acres of birch forest, a spa and restaurant boasting true farm-to-table cuisine with vegetable patches you can dine in. While it’s too cold to do so in late November, there are plenty of other options. The other half and I opt for Old Vines Wine Bar, for so much more than just vino. While the intimate downstairs and its cozy wraparound bar look fun, a little exploration upstairs is worth it. Upstairs, there’s soaring ceilings, more than enough room to spread out, flickering candles and a modern, clean vibe that’s much like the streamlined small-plates menu and craft cocktail list.

Crafts are in order at any number of gift shops the next day, for there’s not too much else in terms of activities in this sleepy season than sleeping in, enjoying a breakfast feast at Salt & Honey (don’t skip the Maine blueberry pancakes), and browsing. While stores and restaurants will all be elbow to elbow in just a few short weeks for the Christmas Prelude

celebrations (11/29–12/9), the downtime is when there are still plenty of options to choose from, without the hassle of sorting through sizes and colors with other holiday rush shoppers.

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We opted for Green Tangerine and Pink Tangerine, where the sale racks are up to 60 percent off, with designer jeans, cashmere sweaters and fun socks and accessories. There’s enough for him to poke through in the men’s section so he doesn’t get bored, then we head off to Minka, a fun gallery and boutique with modern, locally made jewelry (including men’s) and glass planters that certainly take the chill out of the air and make it seem more tropical. Both of us have a blast poking through the treasures at Day Trip Society, where it’s stocking stuffers galore, and all of the cool Maine gear you could ask for — trucker hats and baseball tees, housewares like candles and all things buffalo plaid-checked just in time for a chilly winter.

It’s a shame not to at least drive by the famed beaches here, so we get a hot cocoa at Mornings in Paris and grab the keys. There’s a ton of options within a drive of 30 minutes or so — notably, funky Portland and its plethora of restaurants; and Old Orchard Beach, whose arcade boardwalk evokes skee-ball and nostalgic postcard memories. Keeping it local, there’s Goose Rock Beach, where it’s fun to watch the seagulls and dream of warmer climes. Or, Cape Porpoise’s Ramp Bar & Grill offers stunning sunsets and views of working lobster fishermen. We opted to squeeze the last bit of autumn out of our weekend by toasting an adventure well done at Federal Jack’s, a brewpub that’s also the home of one of New England’s tastiest pumpkin ales. The cinnamon-sugar rim — and a weekend away here — is not to be missed.